Comfort Fit vs. Modern Fit shirts in large sizes – how to choose

When you’re looking for a shirt in larger sizes, the size is only half the battle. The other half is all about the fit. This is where the choice between Comfort Fit and Modern Fit becomes crucial.

Many men have found themselves with a shirt that’s actually “the right size” but still doesn’t fit properly. Perhaps it’s too tight across the stomach, perhaps it’s too loose at the shoulders, or maybe it just feels like there’s too much fabric. This is often down not just to the size, but to the cut itself.

Particularly with larger sizes, the fit is crucial for comfort, freedom of movement and the overall look.

What do ‘Comfort Fit’ and ‘Modern Fit’ mean when it comes to shirts?

Comfort Fit is a relaxed fit. The shirt is cut with extra width across the chest, waist and often the sleeves too, so that it falls more straight down the body. It is designed to provide room and freedom of movement, without you having to go up a size unnecessarily.

The Modern Fit is more tailored. It follows the contours of the body more closely than a classic shirt, but without being as tight as a slim fit. This makes it a good choice for men who want a smarter, more defined look, whilst still being able to move around comfortably.

The short answer, therefore, is this: Comfort Fit offers more space, whilst Modern Fit offers a better fit.

Fit & Fit	Typical expression	Room around the chest and stomach	Physical sensation	Best for
Comfort Fit	Classic and spacious	Most space	More relaxed and laid-back	Men with a broad upper body, a tummy or who want extra comfort
Modern Fit	Easier to customise and sharper	Less space than Comfort Fit	Fitter, but not as tight as a slim fit	Men who want a cleaner, more modern look

In practice, the difference can be quite noticeable. In a typical size L, a Comfort Fit will often have a few extra centimetres at both the chest and waist compared to a Modern Fit. It might not sound like much on paper, but when you’re wearing it, it can be the difference between a shirt that feels comfortable all day and one that you’re constantly aware of.

The difference in shirt fit in larger sizes

As you go up a size, the difference between the two fits usually becomes more noticeable. In smaller sizes, it’s often a question of a slightly more fitted or slightly looser look. In larger sizes, it’s often a question of where the shirt allows for movement and where it starts to feel tight.

A Comfort Fit shirt is typically cut without a distinct taper at the waist. The fabric falls more straight from the armpit downwards, which allows for a relaxed fit around the stomach. This is precisely what many men appreciate, as the shirt does not come undone at the buttons or feel tight when you sit down.

Modern Fit, on the other hand, is cut with a more structured silhouette. It creates a nicer drape if your body shape suits the cut, but it also requires a balance between the bust, waist and shoulders. If you have a prominent tummy or a very broad chest, Modern Fit can quickly feel tighter than you expected.

That doesn’t mean that larger sizes and the Modern Fit don’t go together. It just means you need to pay more attention to your body shape.

How to choose the right shirt fit for your body shape

The best fit is the one that offers you both comfort and a look you feel confident in. There isn’t one single right solution for all men, and that is precisely why, fit is so important.

Many people automatically choose the most roomy shirt when buying larger sizes. This may be right for some, but not for everyone. A shirt should be roomy, but it still needs to fit properly at the shoulders, collar and in length.

• Broad chest and shoulders: Comfort Fit often provides the most comfortable fit without pulling on the buttons.
• A more pronounced stomach: Comfort Fit is usually the safest choice, as the waist isn’t fitted.
• A more balanced body shape: A modern fit can create a neater drape and reduce excess fabric.
• A desire for classic comfort: Comfort Fit typically feels most comfortable during the day.
• Desire for a sharper look: Modern Fit works well for the office, dinner and under a blazer.

If you’re in any doubt, it can help to think about where you most often feel restricted in a shirt. Whether it’s around the chest, stomach or upper arms, a looser fit is often the answer. If, on the other hand, the problem is that the shirt looks too big and boxy, a Modern Fit might be worth a try.

Comfort Fit for the stomach, shoulders and movement

Comfort Fit is often the best choice when you want a shirt that will see you through many hours at a time. It’s ideal for work, meetings, family gatherings and everyday life, when you’re sitting, walking and moving about.

The extra room can also give the shirt a more polished look. When the fabric isn’t stretched tight, there are fewer creases around the buttons and less risk of the shirt “shifting” during the day.

For many men who wear plus sizes, this is exactly where Comfort Fit hits the mark.

Modern Fit for a more streamlined look

Modern Fit can be a really good option if you’re looking for a shirt that has a more defined look without being too close-fitting. It can be particularly good under a jacket or blazer, where too much fabric can quickly make it look cluttered.

However, this does mean that the shirt needs to fit properly around the waist and chest. If you’re between two sizes, the Modern Fit may, in some cases, feel less roomy than you’d expect.

How to measure yourself to find the right shirt size

A good fit starts with measurements. Not guesswork, not habit, but actual measurements. This is particularly true of shirts, where a few centimetres can make all the difference.

Please feel free to measure yourself in a T-shirt or directly against your body, and use a soft measuring tape. Stand in a relaxed position and do not pull the measuring tape too tight.

• Chest circumference
• Waist or abdominal circumference
• Dimensions
• Sleeve length
• Body length, if you often find yourself short of length

The chest measurement indicates how much room you need across your upper body. The waist or stomach measurement is often what determines whether a Modern Fit will be too tight. The collar measurement is important if the shirt is to be worn buttoned up or with a tie. Sleeve length is particularly relevant for tall men, who often need tall sizes or extra-long sleeves.

If your measurements are close to the boundary between two sizes, many people opt for the larger size. This often gives a better-fitting and more comfortable result, particularly with shirts.

Comfort Fit or Modern Fit for work, parties and everyday wear

The occasion also plays a part. The same man may well need both styles in his wardrobe.

For work and smarter occasions, many people opt for a shirt that looks a bit sharper. In this case, a Modern Fit can be a good choice, provided the cut suits your body shape. It looks neater under a blazer and creates a tidier look at the front.

Whether for everyday wear, travelling or long days at the office, Comfort Fit is often the most comfortable option. It allows the feet to breathe, and many people find that it feels more comfortable after several hours, especially if the day involves a lot of sitting or alternating between activity and breaks.

So it doesn’t have to be one or the other. Many men find it works well to wear Comfort Fit for most occasions and supplement this with Modern Fit on days when they want their shirt to look a bit sharper.

Materials and details that affect the fit of a shirt

Even the right fit can feel wrong if the fabric isn’t suited to the occasion. The fabric plays a major role in how the shirt hangs and how it feels throughout the day.

A smooth cotton poplin often gives a neat and clean look. Oxford is slightly heavier and can be a really good choice in larger sizes, as the fabric holds its shape well. Shirts with a little stretch can offer extra freedom of movement, especially if you’re between two sizes.

There are also small details that can be more significant than one might think.

• Chest pocket: is often seen on more classic and loose-fitting shirts.
• Collar style: A classic Kent collar looks traditional, whilst a more open one collar can create a contemporary look.
• Sleeve width: A bit of extra space here can make a big difference in day-to-day use.
• Shirt length: It’s important if you want your shirt to stay tucked into your trousers all day.

If you’re tall, the length is at least as important as the width. A shirt that fits around the chest but is too short in the body or sleeves will rarely look good.

Large sizes and number sizes are not the same thing

This point is often overlooked. A larger size does not automatically mean extra length, and a number size does not automatically mean extra width.

If you’re tall and also wear larger sizes, you may need both at the same time. A standard large shirt might be wide enough, but still too short in the sleeves or the body. Conversely, a plus-size shirt might be the right length, but lack room around the waist or chest.

It is therefore a good idea to look for shirts that are designed to suit different body types, rather than just one size.

How to find shirts in large sizes online

When shopping for shirts online, it’s a good idea to look out for clear product names and size guides. If the fit is stated directly in the product name, it makes it much easier to get it right first time.

At Birger's Comfort Fit is usually easy to spot in the product listing, whilst other shirts are often described in more neutral terms. It therefore makes sense to read the product description carefully and compare it with your own measurements. It’s also worth checking whether the shirt is available in number sizes, the length of which is usually a challenge.

A good size guide makes a big difference, especially when you’re shopping for sizes from M up to 8XL or in plus sizes. This makes it easier to compare chest measurements, length and other measurements before you place your order.

If you’re trying a new fit for the first time, it might be a good idea to order two options and compare them at your leisure. This gives you a much better idea than trying to work it out on your own.

The most important thing is actually quite simple: don’t choose a shirt based solely on the size on the label. Choose it based on how it will look and fit on your body. When the fit is right, the shirt looks better, feels better and gets worn far more often.